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Rooibos muslin

September 17, 2011

Once upon a time, threadsquare was of the notion that pinning was for pansies. Interfacing was best left for the stiffs. A muslin? What’s that, like the Shroud of Turin?

Oh, kittens, how does the opinion change during the quest for knowledge and wisdom. You see, in order to get to a pinless point in garment construction, one first has to learn the reasons why to pin in the first place. One can’t simply state, “Oh, well my mom worked on the line in a garment business for years, nary a pin to be seen. Why should I have to use them?” Or, “Yes, this lovely jacket is going to be the coolest thing ever made because I’m using dotted mustard upholstery fabric, and I scoff at interfacing.  Besides, I don’t own any, and why should I bother making a trip to the store for something I don’t need understand?” (photographic proof of that one coming up in a future installment of SSS pictures)

It’s like anything, really: in order to be able to break the rules, one must first understand said rules and why they exist. (I say this in hindsight, of course, with years of rebellion and utter ignorance of the rules under my belt!) Now, my journey for proper sewing knowledge is still on the flat land of the trail head, and wisdom a distant peak. But I have learned to slow down. Pin. Press. Think. This new, slower speed sometimes frustrates me. I’m impatient and want things now. But now I also want things that last. That fit well. It’s that second bit that has me making muslins more and more often. Call it a toile, call it a muslin, call it a test, just know that it’s useful. Especially for new patterns, the uninitiated, or people like me who still haven’t worked up a sloper, yet want a decent fit. Also useful for when you’re cutting into precious fashion fabric, whether it be pricey or a small quantity of yardage.

As you can see from the muslin (yeah, that’s an old sheet), the bust is pretty much okay. But the waist and shoulders leave a little to be desired. This is a straight up 6, and I’m so glad I didn’t jump right in with a full hip adjustment (look at all those pieces to contend with: upper skirt, lower skirt, outer pocket, inner pocket). Along with my fall pattern challenge and corresponding projects, I’ve given myself a technique to learn: the swayback adjustment. I’ve only recently learned what a swayback is, and now my mission is to properly learn how to deal with it. Fit For Real People has sat on my Amazon wish list far too long, and is now on its merry way to me. So I’m going to set this aside until it arrives, so that I can, hopefully, properly adjust this pattern. Looks like tomorrow my goal will be to do another instant gratification project.  I needs me something new in to throw in the rotation!

The wool suiting I plan to use for this Rooibos has been in my stash forever. While I can’t imagine that at the time of purchase I spent an excessive amount on it, and I do have a fair amount, I still don’t want to be wasteful. With either time or fabric. I still haven’t decided on which of the contrast fabrics will be used for piping, pocket linings and corner points. All three fit into my fall sewing palette, and in my imagination, prior to laying them out, I assumed it would be the chartreuse in the middle. That may change.

I have to say, Colette Patterns are not only beautifully packaged, but a dream to follow. The instruction booklet gives so much information, and it seems the only thing left to remember on one’s own is to finish the seams as you sew. I own several of their patterns, yet this is my first garment after the free Sorbetto that blew up everywhere this summer. Guess I simply had too much going on, so despite my lack of actual sew-along sewing, the timing was right to put this back on my radar.

two more inspiring fabric choices, and a tie remnant from my collection

4 Comments leave one →
  1. September 18, 2011 8:54 am

    I like your chartreuse piping choice- nice pop factor. I too haev slowly learned that pins are my friend. Your dress is going to be great!

    • September 18, 2011 5:40 pm

      I keep coming back to it, too :) Can’t wait to figure out the fit on this!

  2. September 18, 2011 10:17 am

    I love the chartreuse circle fabric for the lining. I almost bought a bolt of the pale blue/navy plusses and stars, but then decided it looked too religious…

    • September 18, 2011 5:38 pm

      Oh no! It was simply geometry to me until now. Maybe I’ll use it for what I originally intended in the first place.

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