April, no showers
Week before last I met up with R for a date and photo shoot after work. I finally finished my own little version of the ever-popular Coffee Date Dress. I think I downloaded the free pattern (not so selfish after all, are we?) some time last year, and found the navy Swiss dot voile right afterward. But, again, just wasn’t getting the lead out until now. I love assignments. It’s like the opposite of assuming, ya know…
I didn’t mess around with a muslin this time; I just wanted to get it off the cutting table and onto me. Because of that, and maybe because it was the designer’s first time grading a pattern, there were definite size issues. I ended up taking it in quite a bit, both at the side seams and the darts. I also made a pleat in the skirt that lines up with the bust dart. There’s only so much taking in one can do, and in retrospect, I could have gone down one, if not two sizes. I was getting wonky results with the bust dart, which may have been due to the fact that overall, the pattern size I chose was too big. The dart came right to the apex of my bust, and wasn’t laying flat. Darts should point to, but fall and inch below (or beside, if a side dart), the apex of the bust. So I made the adjustment, but still have some issues with it laying flat. Chock it up to the pattern or aforementioned sizing issue? (I’ve never drafted a real garment pattern, let a lone a multi-size sample, so this isn’t really a complaint.) I definitely have trouble areas, like any seamster, but I must say I’ve always made stellar darts. The little nobs from the textile kind of hide it anyway, no? It’s best to agree ;) I fiddled to the point where I’m happy to wear the garment, and the fabric is delicate, so unpicking and stitching even a couple of times will break it down.
Back when I purchased the fabric, I bought an invisible zip for the dress. But I thought I’d try a hand-picked zipper. I’m so glad I didn’t insert it with the invisible method. There are some sewing tasks I find so tedious, yet others that sound like they’ll be dreadful are so rewarding to me. Hand-picked zippers are my new best friend.
The details: Cotton Swiss dot voile; sew-in interfacing; China silk (stabilizer for zip); hand-picked zipper; narrow/rolled hem; many thanks to elainemay!