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Old Fashioned, that’s my Ry

February 2, 2012

The Negroni is done! Yet Ry is more of an Old Fashioned guy, into rye whiskey over gin. I’m pretty pleased with the way this turned out. I stitched up a size small muslin then made a few adjustments. As you can see, he’s tall and slender. I lengthened the body by 1″ and the sleeves by 5/8″. Ry also has shoulders on the narrow side, but slightly rounded. Therefore, I graded the back and yoke to add 5/8″ at the shoulder seam, down to nothing at the armpit. I don’t know if this was the correct adjustment, but it’s what I did. Posture police reprimanded “stand up straight” more than once, but I don’t have the best posture myself. If we have kids, they’d better watch out!

Those are the only real changes I made to the pattern. Construction wise, I opted for a traditional flat felled seam on the shoulders, instead of the Colette method. I stitched a basting line 1/4″ around sleeve, then pressed to wrong side. Stitched sleeve to shirt WRONG sides together, standard 5/8″. Trimmed shirt SA, folded over the previously pressed arm SA, then edgestitched/topstitched in place. For the all-in-one side and sleeves, I simplified things by sewing right sides together, serging SAs together, then pressed them to the back. I then stitched them down from the inside for a faux flat felled seam. I really didn’t want to bother with pins as the sleeve narrowed at the wrist, and my serged seam avoided that.

Ry likes a single pocket, unless it’s a western-style or short sleeve shirt. So that’s what Ryan gets! No flap, no loop, and I cut the pocket and back yoke on the bias. The inner back yoke was cut on the straight grain for stability. You might recognize the main fabric from my jeans’ pockets.

The accent fabric came from a pair of BR boxers I’d given him when we first started dating. Not that he even wears boxers, but I loved the stripes! Anyway, the elastic was long gone and he’d finally tossed them. I swooped in for the rescue, as I still love the stripe. He’s probably embarrassed as hell that this is now public knowledge. I’ll make it up to him. Was a bit concerned about all this flair – my husband is more of an understated guy and leaves the wild color up to me. But he insisted he likes the pattern mixing! The red snaps were an eBay snag, and I almost wanted to save them for a more western version of this shirt. (I forgot to take out some basting stitches here.)

Here’s what I’ll change in future renditions:

  • collar stand, especially for a long-sleeve version
  • fold over button placket; the facing is okay, but a fold over would definitely be better on a dress shirt, IMO
  • western-style back yoke & pocket flaps
  • keep the collar as-is for a short sleeve version, and do a real flat felled side seam
  • may widen the cuff for two buttons, and make the circumference a smidge larger

Thanks for being such a sport, baby! And I totally deserved my classic line being tossed back at me. One quick glance at the photos and wrinkles, and I heard “you’re the photographer and stylist!”

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39 Comments leave one →
  1. February 2, 2012 1:24 pm

    Excellent job! What a nice crisp professional looking shirt. As a whiskey fan and a gin-hater, I feel your husband’s pain. Still, this top is worthy of Makers Mark.

    • February 2, 2012 1:40 pm

      Thanks! Mmmm… is it wrong to celebrate with a Makers of my own, alone? It is after noon.

  2. February 2, 2012 1:29 pm

    You did good! That shirt fits perfectly!

    • February 2, 2012 1:40 pm

      Thanks, you :) I was so afraid it was going to be too snug.

  3. February 2, 2012 1:29 pm

    Wow, the shirt looks fantastic! It’s making me consider attempting it. I’ve been on the fence, but I really like your version. The red snaps and contrast fabric are great!

  4. February 2, 2012 2:45 pm

    That’s a great looking shirt. I love the addition of the stripes. I have a shirt that my husband wore holes into, but I’m saving it for a day where I need a little fabric for accent. He will love seeing his bhudda’s show up for a second life. Of course, that would mean I sewed something for him, which doesn’t seem to be happening just yet…

    • February 2, 2012 5:00 pm

      That’s sweet… he will love seeing an old favorite pop up in an unexpected place!

  5. February 2, 2012 3:06 pm

    Love the boxers accent!

  6. February 2, 2012 3:13 pm

    The shirt looks fantastic!! I had to giggle at the boxers secret being made public comment… you can tell him he is safe from embarrassment – it’s not HIM that has to deal with the implications of being a rescuer of worn out undies ;) LOL ^__^

    I love the contrast details of the stripes though, it totally makes the salvage VERY justifiable, and the red cuff snaps are awesome!! :) Nice find!!

    • February 2, 2012 5:02 pm

      I know, right?! What does this say about me? Eco-conscious, thrifty, sure, but the fact that I spilled the beans? Have I no shame?

      • February 2, 2012 5:16 pm

        Oh on the contrary, I believe you were obligated to share that ditty of info with us so we could all be inspired by your resourcefulness! You’re taking one for the community! :)

  7. February 2, 2012 3:53 pm

    Looks awesome and your husband is a really good sport for posing for all those shots (I have a hard time with that chez Stitch Parade!). You know, this shirt has been in the back of my mind as a possible project for Mr. Stitch but I never before noticed the lack of a collar stand in this pattern – something to think about. I love the fact that the contrasting fabric came from a pair of boxers – so ingenious and very waste conscious!

    • February 2, 2012 5:04 pm

      Thanks! I was pretty surprised he was into it, even hamming it up a little :) It should be easy to convert to a fold over button placket w/collar stand, but let’s hope I don’t eat my words.

  8. G.Petunia permalink
    February 2, 2012 4:00 pm

    Cool shirt, nice fit, cute hubby.

  9. February 2, 2012 5:47 pm

    Ooo, I loved the stripes, and even more now I know the back-story! A men’s shirt is such a satisfying thing to have made, isn’t it? Big fat clap on your shoulder for your success!

    • February 3, 2012 8:26 am

      Hehe…I don’t feel so bad about airing my clean laundry, then!

  10. February 2, 2012 6:12 pm

    Wow, this looks great! And your husband is a cutie! I’d like to try this pattern out on Blake, although it seems pretty difficult, but sheesh, after putting up with my sewing mess for so long, he deserves to reap some benefits!

    • February 3, 2012 8:28 am

      Give it a go! I think you’ll find it a lot easier than expected. Gotta through those boys a bone now and then :) After a full day’s wear, guess there’s still a little tweaking to be done next time.

  11. February 2, 2012 8:42 pm

    What a dapper gentleman! LOVING the stripe detail on the sleeves. It looks fantastic. I really need to get on the Negroni band wagon and make one for my man.

    • February 3, 2012 8:31 am

      Thanks! Go make one up :) This one needs some tweaking, but it wasn’t too difficult.

  12. February 3, 2012 12:14 pm

    This is lovely, the stripes are a great detail. I had forgetten about the Negroni when I made my husbands shirt, I used a McCalls pattern, which looks great, but is rather voluminous (which is how Husband likes them!). I think a more slimline version might be the next step…

    • February 4, 2012 12:58 pm

      It’s truly a fun pattern! Though if hubby likes voluminous, you may have to do some convincing & coaxing :)

      • February 5, 2012 3:38 pm

        Maybe…. He has lost some weight recently and I think he should wear more things that emphasize that!

  13. February 3, 2012 1:47 pm

    That’s turned out really well – love the contrasting details. I’ve made one for my BF but he’s not been around to try it on – hope it fits as well as the one you made.

  14. February 3, 2012 11:16 pm

    Okay, could your husband be any cuter- and what a sport eh? For putting up with what I am sure was multiple fittings!! Anyway- awesome professional job! I love that you reused the boxers and the snaps….. He has great shoes!! And those baby blues!!! He should be a model!!! Great Job Lavender!!!
    WOW!!! really impressive!

    • February 4, 2012 1:02 pm

      Can’t let him see this, or he’ll want to ham it up even more! Actually, he’s a pretty reserved guy so I don’t know what came over him behind the camera. Make your hubs a Negroni! I want to see more of them :)

  15. February 4, 2012 12:41 pm

    Lavender I LOVE this shirt! It looks fantastic and fits him so well. Your details are fantastic. Those are great shots, too! You guys make a good team. :)

    • February 4, 2012 1:03 pm

      Thanks!!! He’s way less of a diva than I am… maybe I should sew for him more often :)

  16. February 5, 2012 3:31 pm

    This is fantastic! I really need to make this pattern some day. Mine keeps asking me to make some shirts and he is very narrow as well. Oh, and I love your labels!

    • February 6, 2012 8:59 am

      Thanks! I got them from an Etsian. Def try this shirt, it’s great for slim gents :)

  17. February 6, 2012 11:01 am

    that’s one handsome Negroni (and fella) – love the contrast under collar and plackets. Isn’t it a great pattern?

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